Porto…

Where do I begin….

When I first started planning this trip, I spent countless hours scanning, reading, and watching YouTube videos on where to go, where to stay, and what to see. Porto had been on my list for years, but there’s only so much a screen can tell you. At some point, you just have to go.

Landing in the Ribeira

We arrived in the Ribeira district, Porto’s historic riverfront neighborhood, and it felt like stepping into every photo I’d ever admired. Narrow cobblestone streets. Laundry strung between colorful buildings. The Douro River right there, with the Dom Luís bridge stretching overhead.

This is where we’d call home for the next few days.

Exmo Hotel by Olivia

We stayed at Exmo Hotel by Olivia, right in the heart of the Ribeira. With just 16 rooms, it’s small by design, which helps maintain an intimate and cozy boutique hotel experience. No long check-in lines. No feeling like just another guest.

But the staff…WOW! They truly made our stay absolutely perfect and made us feel at home. From the moment we walked in, it was clear this wasn’t going to be a typical hotel stay. They pointed us toward the right restaurants, the right viewpoints, the right everything.

Slowing Down

After weeks of planning, packing, and getting the house squared away, there was something almost disorienting about finally sitting still. We spent our first evening at Bacalhau, a restaurant just steps from the hotel and highly recommended from our hotel, where we finally got to try the famous Portuguese cuisine it’s famous for. Simple, comforting, and exactly what we needed after a long day of travel.

From there, we wandered down to the river, and took in all the sites and sounds of all the people enjoying the evening.

No itinerary. No rush. Just Porto, unfolding at its own pace.

Sometimes the best way to start a trip is to simply let a city introduce itself.

Mercado do Bolhão

The next morning, we made our way to Mercado do Bolhão, Porto’s iconic market. Freshly restored, but still full of character. Stalls of fish, flowers, cheese, and fruit stacked high, with vendors calling out and locals doing their morning shopping around us. It’s the kind of place where you go in for a quick look and end up staying an hour.

Port Tasting at Sandeman

From the market, we made our way across the river for a port tour, and we picked Sandeman for ours. We walked through the cellars on the Vila Nova de Gaia side, hearing the story of how port wine gets made and aged, then sat down for a tasting. Rich, sweet, and something we’ll be looking for on menus back home for a long time. And can I say, David is now a Port fan.

Livraria Lello

Day two started with Livraria Lello, the famous bookstore that’s become one of Porto’s must-see stops. The crowds are crazy real. We’re talking timed tickets, our’s was 9:45am, and a line down the block just to get inside. But once you’re in, it makes sense. The carved wooden staircase, the stained-glass ceiling, the whole place feels more like a cathedral than a bookstore.

What we didn’t expect was the Manifesto Library tucked inside. It serves as a physical sanctuary for literature that has faced suppression, a quiet, powerful reminder tucked right in the middle of all that beauty.

Church of Saint Francis

From there, we made our way to the Church of Saint Francis, and if I had to pick one highlight from Porto, this would be it. From the outside, it’s understated. Inside, it’s absolutely covered, floor to ceiling, in gold gilded woodwork. Photos aren’t allowed inside, ok but I might’ve snuck just one, which honestly made us slow down and just take it in instead of rushing to capture it. It’s one of those places pictures wouldn’t do justice anyway.

Dinner at O Solar Do Patio

We ended day two at O Solar Do Patio, a cozy little spot that felt like a warm exhale after a full day of walking. Tucked away, quiet, the kind of place you’d only find if someone pointed you toward it. It ended up being one of our favorite meals of the whole trip.

Next up, the Douro Valley.